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Best Compact SUVs of 2025Your Must Have Used Car Checklist
Buying a used car can be great for your budget but buying a quality vehicle requires knowing what to look for. Our used car checklist is here to help.
A Knowledgeable Eye for Used Cars
Buying a used car can save you money. Obviously, the flipside of that is a used car carries miles on the odometer and wear and tear seen and unseen. Therefore, it helps to have some basic automotive knowledge when buying a used vehicle. This checklist aims to provide you with a comprehensive, if not totally exhaustive, rundown of everything you should be looking for when buying a used car.
The first thing you’ll want to do when shopping for a used car is research the vehicle’s strengths and weaknesses with a particular focus on common mechanical issues. If the vehicle is listed on a dealer’s site or a listing site like Carsforsale.com, you’ll also want to check the vehicle history report noting service work that has been done, any open recalls, and whether the vehicle has been in any accidents. This way you’ll know the primary points of concentration when doing your inspection.
Depending on how thorough you’re able to be, you can inspect the vehicle with just a flashlight and some clean rags. If you’re foregoing a professional inspection, you’ll also want a jack, jack stands, and a code reader (the latter typically cost around $30.00 and can give you trouble codes indicating potential issues).
Exterior
There’s a lot you can tell about a used vehicle from just walking around it and kicking the proverbial tires (there are, in fact, better ways of checking tire condition than kicking them). Below is our list of things to check for.
- Body Panels: Check for dents, scratches, pits, tree sap, worn finish, discoloration, and rust. Is there tape or evidence of refinishing? Look for uneven or mismatched panels. Generally, panel gaps should remain consistent from one end of a seam to the other, if it widens or narrows, it could indicate an accident.
- Glass: Watch for cracks, scratches, or chips in the glass. Even small cracks can become large ones with time, moisture, and temperature changes.
- Tires and Wheels: Check the sidewalls of tires for cracks, bulges, scruffs, and uneven wear. Also look for any scratches or damage to the rims or wheels. Check the bead depth, using a penny, if the tread doesn’t touch Lincoln’s head, the tires need replacing. Also check for uneven wearing of the tires. Suspension problems can cause the inner part of the tire to wear faster than the outside. Verify all the lug nuts are present and all the tires are the same brand. Take a look along the side of the vehicle; note whether any of the tires/wheels stick out or sit at an angle. Any misalignment could also indicate suspension problems.
- Lights: Look for cracks, cloudiness, or burnt-out bulbs. Verify that all the lights work, including high beams, break lights, reverse lights, turn signals, and fog lamps.
- Brakes: Watch for any fluid on either the bottom of calipers or drum brakes that might indicate leaks. Rust on the brake discs can be normal depending on age and how long the vehicle has been sitting outdoors but watch for grooving as a sign of age. Rust on other components like the calipers should be minimal.
- Suspension: To best assess the front suspension, turn the wheels all the way to the right or left (depending on the wheel you’re looking at). Look for rusty coil springs and oil leaking from the strut. Check the axle boot for wear, damage, or leaking fluid. Likewise check the ball joint for leaked fluid or rust. Watch for older style leaf springs that may accumulate excessive rust both on the spring itself and on the brackets. Front and back, put your weight on the trunk/hood to depress the suspension while listening for squeaks, thunks, or other unusual sounds.
- At a Distance: Have the seller/salesperson start the car from a distance and note whether the exhaust looks smoky (white or black exhaust is not good, ideally you shouldn’t see much of anything). Also listen for any unusual sounds like ticking, knocking, chugging, rattling, or squealing.
Interior
The state of the interior isn’t just the condition of the upholstery. Here’s are all the things to look, listen, and smell for.
- Seats: Remove any coverings and check the upholstery for tears, holes, and leather for cracking and wear. Also note any stains, deformation of the underlying foam, or unevenness that indicates that a spring is broken.
- Smell: Note any unusual smells; musty or damp odors could indicate water damage; pet or smoky odors are especially difficult to get rid of.
- Water Damage: Check under the floor mats, seats, and in the roof lining for signs of mildew or mold and note any associated odor. Pay special attention to the floor under the glovebox, above is the heater core which could leak onto the floor.
- Gauge Cluster: Check all dials and lights on the gauge display are working properly. Turn the key to the on position without starting the vehicle. Lights for the ABS, air bag, seat belts, check engine, brake lights, oil light, and battery should all be on. Also check that the fuel gauge is working. Test the turn signals as well as the wipers and wiper fluid.
- Instrumentation/Infotainment: Use every dial and button on the center stack to ensure they are all in working order. This means checking the HVAC and making sure the A/C actually pushes out cold air, the heater produces hot air, and the fan speed can be adjusted. Check the stereo, noting that all the speakers work and that AM/FM radios work. Run through the various menus and features of the infotainment system. Test the Bluetooth and USB connections as well as the wireless phone charger if the vehicle is so equipped. Likewise for the ambient lighting. Try out the navigation system and every point on the touchscreen (damaged touchscreens can stop functioning in specific areas).
- Power Seats: Test the power seats, making sure to use all the dials and buttons. Also test the heated/cooling/massaging functions.
- Door Switches: Make sure the windows roll down, the locks work properly, and the side mirror switches work.
- Odometer: Does the mileage on the odometer align with the age and condition of the vehicle? Very low mileage could be suspect.
- Brake Pedal: Another place to double check against the mileage is the car’s brake pedal. If it shows excessive wear compared to the mileage on the odometer, that car may have had its odometer rolled back.
- Roof Liner: Look up and ensure the roof liner isn’t sagging or torn. If you’re looking at a convertible, you’ll also want to check the condition of the materials, including seals and rear window plastic, and then run the top up and down a few times to ensure the mechanism is working properly and that the roof seals well.
Engine Bay, Undercarriage, Trunk
Things might look great at first glance, but a thorough inspection isn’t complete until you’ve gotten a good look at all the mechanicals. Here’s what to look for in the engine compartment and undercarriage.
- Leaks: Look under the vehicle and in the engine bay and make sure there are no signs of oil (brown or black), anti-freeze (orange or green), or other fluids leaking.
- Engine Oil: Pull out the dip stick and look at the oil. Make sure it isn’t black, gray and foamy, watery, or has any debris.
- Fluids: Check the levels on all fluids including brake fluid, transmission fluid, and wiper fluid. Transmission oil should be pinkish and smell like oil; brown transmission oil indicates problems.
- Radiator: Anti-freeze should either be orange or green in color, not milky or rusty. (Warning! Only check the radiator when the engine is cold!) Check the underside of the radiator for any leaks.
- Belts and Hoses: Look for worn or cracked belts, hoses, and other plastic components.
- Wiring: Look for any wiring that may have been burnt, damaged, or chewed on by animals. Apparently wiring insolation tastes good to rodents.
- Unwanted Guests: On that note, look for any signs of infestation by rodents, spiders, or insects i.e., droppings, nesting materials, food stashes, etc. Any vehicle sitting outside or in an outbuilding for any length of time is a tempting shelter for wildlife.
- Battery: Check the age and condition of the battery, is it more than 4-years old? Is it corroded? Are the connections tight?
- Air Filter: Inspect the engine air filter to see that it doesn’t need replacing.
- Rust: Carefully inspect the frame, door sills and hinges, and all suspension and steering components for rust. Some rust on exhaust parts and brake discs aren’t necessarily cause for concern (depending on severity), but corroded calipers or rusty exhaust brackets could spell trouble.
- Fender Shields: Check that all the fender shields are present, undamaged, and have all their screws.
- Trunk: Open the trunk. Check for rust or water along the edges. Smell and feel for dampness or leaks including under the spare tire. Check the spare tire itself, noting whether it’s inflated properly, cracked, or otherwise worn. Also look at the edge of the spare tire well. If there are indentations, that could suggest the vehicle had been in a rear end collision.
Test Drive
There’s a lot going on in a used car you won’t be able to evaluate until you get it started and out on the road. Here’s what to look, listen, and feel for.
- Ignition: Turn the key over without starting the car to see whether all warning lights are working. Turn over the engine. Does it start easily? Are there any odd noises when the vehicle is idling?
- Transmission: Does the automatic transmission clunk when you put the car in drive or between gears? Does it shudder, clunk, or hesitate while shifting? Does the CVT (continuously variable transmission) jerk excessively? (If you don’t know whether the vehicle has a traditional automatic or CVT, ask the seller). With a manual-equipped vehicle, does the clutch feel stiff? Does it shift properly between each gear?
- Turning: Note the handling in corners, is the steering accurate? On sharp turns at slow speeds, can you hear any clunks or creaks? In a parking lot, turn the wheel all the way right under speed and all the way left in the same fashion while listening and feeling for anything unusual.
- Brakes: Feel the brakes. Are they squishy? Is there a delay between application and deceleration? Do they feel grabby, like they engage too hard or quickly? Does the manner of braking change? Does the vehicle pull to either side when braking?
- Steering: Does the vehicle drift to either side when you let go of the wheel? Does the vehicle pull to either side or feel like the steering wheel wobbles?
- Acceleration: Make sure the vehicle accelerates smoothly rather than jerking or lagging when you apply the throttle.
- Cruise Control: While highway driving, make sure to test the vehicle’s cruise control or automatic cruise control system.
- Driver’s Aids: Similarly, test the vehicle’s lane keep and other driver assistance systems, like Tesla’s Autopilot, Ford’s Blue Cruise, etc., by turning them on and driving for a distance with them activated. (Note, we recommend against testing the automatic emergency braking systems yourself for obvious reasons.)
- Sound: Listen to the engine noting any knocking, ticking, squealing. Listen to the suspension for creaking or clunking, especially in cornering or on rough surfaces. Note any noise from interior components (including trim) that rattle, squeak, or sound loose.
- Vary Roads: Take the vehicle on different roads and drive at different speeds to get a good feel of how it handles, sounds, and behaves under different conditions. Note whether it struggles up hills or to get up to highway speed, and whether it sounds odd at low or high speeds.
Now You Know What to Look For, But You’re Not Done Yet
As good as a checklist like this is, it’s still a good idea to have a possible purchase looked at by a professional mechanic you trust. Most dealers are happy to allow you to have a third-party mechanic inspect a potential purchase. Also make sure to ask to see the title of the vehicle. Check for any leans against the vehicle and whether it carries any brands or has a salvage title. Click here for an explanation of title brands and salvage titles. If you’re buying the car from a third party, double check that the name on the title matches that of the person you’re talking to.
Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in May 2020 and has been completely revamped and updated for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
